6 Colorful Tunisian Crochet Blanket Patterns for Beginners

Tunisian crochet makes wonderfully dense, warm fabrics with a lovely texture that sits somewhere between knitting and crocheting. If you’re new to Tunisian, these six beginner-friendly blanket patterns are perfect starters — they’re colorful, forgiving, and each teaches a small new technique (striping, surface crochet, bobbles, TKS vs TSS texture, modular joining). I give full step-by-step instructions, materials, sizing advice, finishing tips and easy variations so you can make a cozy throw or a snuggly baby blanket.

Quick note: Tunisian uses a forward pass (picking up loops on the hook) and a return pass (working them off). For large blankets you’ll probably want a Tunisian/Afghan hook or a long circular Tunisian hook (or use a standard long cable hook). If that sounds unfamiliar — don’t worry. I’ll explain the basic motions at the start and repeat them when a pattern uses a specific Tunisian stitch.

Before you start — tools, abbreviations, and how Tunisian crochet works

Materials (general for all patterns)

Yarn: worsted weight (#4) is ideal for blankets — warm and fast. Use cotton blends for lighter throws and acrylic/wool blends for extra loft.

Hook: Tunisian/Afghan hook or long circular Tunisian hook. For worsted yarn, 6.0–8.0 mm (US J–L) is common — smaller if you want a denser fabric. Use the hook size recommended on your yarn label as a starting point.
Tapestry needle, scissors, stitch markers, blocking pins and mat (optional).

Gauge (approximate; always swatch first)

Tunisian Simple Stitch (TSS) with worsted yarn on a 6.5 mm hook: ~12–14 sts × 10–12 rows = 4″ (10 cm) blocked. Your gauge will vary a lot with tension — make a swatch and adjust hook size.

Basic Tunisian technique (the mechanics)

Foundation row (forward pass): chain required # plus 1. Insert hook into second ch from hook, yarn over (yo) and pull up a loop — do that in each chain across. Leave all loops on the hook.
Return pass: yo, pull through one loop (this forms edge), yo, pull through two loops across until one loop remains on hook. That completes one Tunisian “row.”
To continue, do another forward pass picking up loops across (including the edge), then a return pass to work them off.

Selvedge: Typically ch 1 at the end of forward pass then on return pass you work the edge loop to make a neat side. I’ll specify selvedge handling where needed.

Common Tunisian stitches used here

Tunisian Simple Stitch (TSS) — insert hook under vertical bar, yo and pull up a loop. (Most basic and dense.)
Tunisian Knit Stitch (TKS) — insert hook under the front vertical strand and the strand created by the return pass to mimic knitting; gives a smoother, knitlike face. (Technique explained in pattern uses.)

Tunisian Purl Stitch (TPS) — insert hook from the front under the vertical bar then bring yarn to front like a purl; gives a purl ridge.
Tunisian Extended Simple Stitch (TESS) — wraps around the vertical bar to create taller/looser stitches (used for texture or drape).
Tunisian bobble/puff: make multiple yarn overs and pull up loops into the same vertical bar on the forward pass, then work them off on the return to create a raised bobble.

If you want video help for forward/return passes and TKS/TPS movements, lots of short tutorials are available — but the written steps below include the exact motions.

1. Crochet Striped Tunisian Blanket Pattern

A classic first Tunisian blanket: alternating colorful stripes in TSS. Fast, graphic, and perfect for stash-busting.

Skill: Beginner (TSS + color changes)
Finished sizes (examples)

Baby: 30″ × 36″ (approx.)
Throw: 48″ × 60″

Materials

Worsted weight yarn in 4–6 colors; approximate yardage (throw): 1600–2200 yds total depending on size and border.

Tunisian hook 6.5–7.5 mm.
Tapestry needle.

Notes on color changes

Change color at the end of the return pass for the cleanest joins: when you finish the return pass with Color A, do the next forward pass using Color B (pick up loops with Color B). This avoids long floats and makes tidy vertical color joins.

Pattern (baby blanket example — adapt multiples to width)

Chain 88 (or desired width in stitches: aim for ~28–30″ with your gauge). Forward pass: Work TSS in 2nd ch from hook across, pulling up loops in each chain (88 loops on hook). Return pass: Yo, pull through 1, yo, pull through 2 to end. (This completes Row 1.) This is your base.
Decide stripe height: e.g., 8 rows per stripe. Work 8 Tunisian rows in Color A (forward + return pass each row).
- Color change: On the last return pass of a stripe (Row 8), work the last yo-pull through 2 with Color A, then immediately start the next forward pass with Color B — you’ll pick up loops in Color B. Continue 8 rows in Color B.
Repeat stripe sequence across chosen colors until blanket reaches desired length.
Border: After final row, bind off using a Tunisian simple bind-off (or work one round of sc around the blanket with a regular crochet hook to stabilize edge). For a neat finish, do: sc around, 2 sc in corners, then 1 or 2 rounds of sc or crab stitch.

Step-by-step: a single Tunisian row (reminder)

Forward pass: insert hook under next vertical bar, yo, pull up loop across; ch 1 to finish selvedge (if preferred).
Return pass: yo, pull through one loop (edge), yo, pull through two loops — repeat until one loop remains.

Variations & tips

Use wide 4–6 row stripes for a modern look, or narrow 2-row stripes for candy-striped texture.

Want softer drape? Substitute every third stripe with Tunisian Knit Stitch (TKS) as described below to loosen the fabric slightly.
Add fringe to ends for a boho finish.

2. Crochet Gingham Tunisian Lilly Blanket Pattern

Gingham effect without complicated colorwork: a simple TSS base with surface crochet grids layered on top — looks like woven gingham but is quick.

Skill: Beginner → Easy intermediate (TSS + surface slip stitch)
Finished sizes: Baby 30″×36″; Throw 50″×60″

Materials

Two colors: Color A (background) and Color B (accent) for gingham checks.
Worsted yarn, Tunisian hook 6.5 mm.

Construction idea

Work a striped or plain background in Color A. When base is complete, use Color B to surface-crochet (slip stitch) horizontal and vertical lines to form a grid that creates a gingham illusion where lines overlap.

Pattern (baby blanket simplified)

Make a TSS base in Color A to desired dimensions (e.g., chain 88 and work TSS rows until length 36″). Use even tension and block lightly.

Decide check size: e.g., 2″ squares — measure how many stitches per 2″ horizontally (from your gauge) and rows per 2″ vertically. Mark the positions lightly with removable stitch markers or pins on the blocked blanket.
Add vertical stripes: Using a regular crochet hook (or Tunisian hook), join Color B at the bottom selvedge at first marked column. Holding the blanket flat, sc up each marked vertical column through both loops of each Tunisian vertical bar (or work surface slip stitch along the vertical bars) to create a subtle raised line. Fasten off at top, weave ends. Repeat for each vertical column at spacing determined by check size.
Add horizontal stripes: With Color B join at side selvedge and sc/surface slip through the horizontal rows at marked row positions. When horizontal and vertical lines cross you’ll naturally create darker intersections — that’s your gingham look.

Finish: Work a 1–2 round sc border in Color B or Color A to frame.

Why this works

Gingham is basically a woven overlay: where two colored yarns cross, the perceived color is darker. Surface crochet mimics that overlay without re-working the Tunisian forward passes.

Tips & variations

For sharper grid lines use slip stitch (surface slip stitch) instead of sc — it sits flatter.

For a softer check, use a third muted color for intersections by embroidering small Xs at crossing points.
Want a “Lilly” floral motif in the center of checks? After creating the grid, embroider small 5-petal flowers with a contrast color into selected squares.

3. Crochet Tunisian Afghan Blanket Pattern

A textured afghan using alternating TSS and TKS panels for a cozy, slightly reversible throw. Great for learning TKS (knit-like) vs TSS (bumpy textured).

Skill: Beginner → Intermediate (learn TKS)
Finished size: Throw 48″ × 60″ (sample instructions give panel sizing)

What TKS feels like

Tunisian Knit Stitch (TKS) produces a smoother, flatter surface that looks like stockinette knit. It’s built by a different insertion on the forward pass (insert hook under the front vertical strand and the strand created by the return pass), which creates a lean and drape.

Materials

3 colors: Main color for body and two accent colors for bands. Worsted yarn, Tunisian hook 6.5–7.5 mm.

Pattern — panelized afghan (make 4 panels then seam)

Panel size: Make 4 panels each 12″ × 60″ (join for 48″ width) — or work one large piece across if you prefer fewer seams. For a panel 12″ wide, chain the number of stitches from your swatch (e.g., 36 ch).
Panel construction: Alternate texture bands every 8 rows:
- Band A (TSS): Work 8 rows in TSS (forward + return passes).
- Band B (TKS): Work 8 rows in TKS. To work the forward pass in TKS: insert the hook under the vertical bar from left to right, then insert from front to back under the horizontal strand created by the return pass, yo and pull up a loop. (This produces a loop with a crossed orientation.) Return pass same as usual. Repeat bands until panel reaches 60″ length.
Edging on panels: Work one round of sc around each panel using regular crochet hook to tidy edges.
Seaming: Join panels with mattress stitch (for a near-invisible seam) along long edges; alternate seams for color balance. You can also join with whipstitch or single crochet for a decorative ridge.

Final border: Work 2–3 rounds of sc in contrasting color around whole afghan or a scalloped edge for visual polish.

Full step-by-step row example (TKS forward pass)

Forward pass (TKS): After chaining and completing base row, for each forward pass: insert hook from right to left under the first vertical bar, then insert hook from front to back through the horizontal strand directly in front of that vertical bar (the bar made by the return pass); yo, pull up a loop. Continue across.
Return pass: standard — yo pull through one, then yo pull through two until one loop remains.

Variations & tips

Make wider TKS panels for a drapier throw or narrower TSS bands for more texture.
Use heathered or tweed yarn for a cozy, rustic afghan.
If you prefer one-piece construction, simply increase chain length to the full width (e.g., 120 ch for a 48″ blanket) and work bands across.

4. Crochet Marshmallow Twist Tunisian Baby Blanket Pattern

A squishy baby blanket with Tunisian bobbles/puffs that look like marshmallows — delightful for babies and great for practicing tunisain bobbles.

Skill: Beginner → Intermediate (Tunisian bobbles)
Finished size: 30″ × 36″ (baby)

Materials

Bulky or super-bulky yarn (#5–6) for extra squish, hook 8.0–10.0 mm. (Bulky makes the bobbles marshmallowy.)

Contrasting border yarn (same weight).

The Marshmallow bobble method (how it’s made)

On the forward pass, draw multiple loops into the same vertical bar (for example, draw up 5 loops into one bar). On the return pass, work those loops off using yo pull through two repeatedly to form a puff. The number of loops controls size.

Pattern (baby blanket)

Chain 68 (or the number for your desired width in bulky gauge). Forward pass in TSS across. Return pass work off loops. That’s the base row.
Row structure: Repeat pattern rows as follows:
- Rows 1–3: 3 rows TSS (establish background).
- Row 4 (bobbles row): Forward pass: TSS across until you reach the position for bobble, then (yo, pull up loop) 5 times in the same vertical bar (so you have 5 extra loops on the hook), continue TSS across. Return pass: When you encounter that cluster of 5 loops, yo, pull through 2 repeatedly until the cluster is worked off (you will have created a single bobble/puff anchored at that vertical bar). Continue across. Space bobbles evenly — e.g., every 8 sts across row.
- Rows 5–7: 3 rows TSS to set the bobble.
- Repeat the 7-row pattern, offsetting bobbles on alternating bobble rows for a brickwork look (on the next bobble row, start the first bobble 4 sts to the right to stagger).
Continue until blanket length is 36″.
Border: Because the fabric is thick, a single round of sc then a ribbed Tunisian bind-off (or 1–2 rows of reverse single crochet with a hook one size down) finishes neatly.

Tips for neat bobbles

Keep tension loose when drawing multiple loops; if you pull tight you’ll struggle on return pass.
Practice making 3-loop bobbles first, then scale to 5 for marshmallow size. Bulky yarn needs fewer loops (3–4) to form a large puff.

Variation

Use two colors and make bobbles in the contrast color by carrying a bobble yarn only for the loop pulls and then dropping it — this gives pops of color without touching other rows.

5. Crochet Tunisian Seascape Throw Blanket Pattern

A gradient, ocean-inspired throw with banded textures and a wavy edge to evoke surf and tide. Uses color gradients and a mix of TSS/TKS and triple-stitch shells for the hem.

Skill: Beginner → Intermediate (color gradients + shell border)
Finished size: 48″ × 60″ (throw)

Materials

Gradient yarn cakes (3–4 cakes) in sea colors OR five coordinating worsted skeins.

Tunisian hook 6.5–7.5 mm.

Design approach

Work horizontal bands that graduate from deep navy → teal → seafoam → sand. Texture bands alternate TSS (flat) with TKS (smooth) and occasional extended-stitch wave bands to simulate water movement.

Pattern (conceptual step-by-step)

Foundation chain: Chain width for 48″ (from swatch; e.g., 120 ch). Forward pass TSS and return pass.
Banding plan (example):
- Deep band (Navy) — 12 rows TKS (gives smooth knit surface).
- Mid band (Teal) — 8 rows TSS.
- Wave band (Seafoam) — 6 rows Extended TSS (work TESS: wrap yarn over vertical bar before pulling up loop) for a taller looser texture.
- Reflection band (Sand) — 4 rows TSS in natural/beige to mimic shore.
- Repeat or vary across whole length in gradient sequence from dark → light → dark to create layered seascape.
Wave edge (scalloped hem) finish: Once blanket length achieved, work one round of sc with a regular crochet hook and then 1 shell in every 4 or 6 stitches around for a scalloped wave border: (skip 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, skip 2, sl st next) — this makes rounded waves.
Optional surface embroidery: Small white single crochets or French knots (with embroidery thread) can be added in upper bands to mimic sea foam flecks.

Color transitions

To avoid harsh transitions, work 2 rows of a blended stripe: carry two colors together for 1–2 rows (holding both strands and working TSS with both) for a subtle fade.

Tips & variations

Make a baby version with only 2–3 colors.
Use a chunky yarn and fewer bands for a bolder, more graphic seascape.

6. Crochet Tunisian Grid Blanket Pattern

A modern modular blanket made of Tunisian squares joined on the go — clean grid look and easy to mix colors.

Skill: Beginner → Intermediate (modular joining)
Finished sizes: Baby 30″×36″ (6×5 grid of 5″ squares), Throw 48″×60″ (8×10 grid)

Materials

4–8 coordinating worsted colors.
Tunisian hook 6.5–7.5 mm.

Construction concept

Make many small Tunisian squares (e.g., 5″ finished) using TSS or TKS. Join squares as you go with Tunisian simple stitch seam, or whipstitch for speed. Finish with a single-color border.

Square pattern (5″ square example)

Chain the number of stitches to get 5″ width from your swatch (e.g., 20 ch). Forward pass TSS across — return pass work off loops. Repeat for 20–24 rows until square is 5″ tall (blocked). Fasten off.

Make required number of squares in various colors: for a 6×5 baby blanket you need 30 squares.
Join-as-you-go method (fast): Lay first square flat. For next square in the same row, align right edges and with RS facing, hold squares together and work a Tunisian join (or sc through both edges) across the joining edge — this sews them together and makes an integrated seam. Continue across row.
After rows complete, join rows together by aligning vertical seams and working the same join across.

Once all squares joined, work a 2–3 round sc border in a neutral color to frame the grid.

Detailed join-as-you-go (simple sc seam)

With RS of both squares facing, hold them so edges align. Using a regular crochet hook, join yarn and sc through both loops of corner stitches, then sc across next stitch of square A through corresponding stitch of square B. Continue until seam is complete. This creates a neat visible grid line.

Variations

For a pixelated effect, alternate light and dark squares in checkerboard or random placement.

Use different stitch textures per square (some TKS for smooth, some TSS for bumps) for an interesting tactile blanket.

Finishing touches, blocking, and care

Blocking: Tunisian fabric benefits from gentle blocking. Wet block flat on a mat and pin to shape, especially useful for patterned edges or squares. Use steam for acrylic? Avoid excessive heat — follow yarn care.

Weaving ends: Tunisian crochet produces many color joins — weave ends carefully and bury them into the vertical bars with a tapestry needle. For bulky yarn, single knot + weave is fine; for thinner yarn, tuck tail through several vertical bars.

Edging options

Simple sc rounds (1–3 rounds) to stabilize edges.
Reverse single crochet (crab stitch) for a twisted rope border.
Scallop or shell border for feminine finishes.

Care instructions

Wash according to yarn label. Most worsted acrylics are machine washable; natural fibers may need cold wash and flat dry. For baby blankets prefer machine-washable yarns.

Final tips & troubleshooting

Swatch first. Don’t guesstimate — Tunisian gauge varies with stitch and hook. Make a 4″ swatch in your main stitch and measure.

Keep the hook size consistent across project to maintain even tension. If seams pull, block heavily.
Selvedge: maintain a neat edge by chain 1 at end of forward pass and working the selvedge loop on the return pass. This avoids ragged edges and makes borders easier.
Practice TKS/TPS on a small swatch before attempting a whole blanket — the insertion differs from TSS but is quickly learned.

Manage color changes: change color at the end of the return pass for clean joins; when carrying yarn across long distances, break the yarn to avoid visible floats and weave tails neatly.