Beanies are fast, practical, and make excellent handmade gifts. This post contains five complete beanie patterns — Hearts in a Row Stripe Beanie, Pink Cable-Knit Pom-Pom Cottagecore Beanie, Rainbow Granny Beanie, Slouchy Willow Knot Beanie, and Fair Isle Hand-Knit Beanie — each written with materials lists, skill level, full step-by-step construction for standard adult sizes, gauge notes, finishing tips, and easy variations. Read the quick essentials first, then choose the pattern you like.
Quick essentials (tools, yarn, abbreviations, sizing)
Tools & yarn
- Yarn: worsted-weight (category 4) is a great, gift-friendly choice for most of these beanies. For chunky cables use aran/bulky if you prefer a thicker look — the pattern notes will indicate adjustments if needed.
- Hooks: use the hook recommended on your yarn label and the pattern’s gauge. Many worsted-weight beanies are worked with a 5.0 mm (H/8) hook; some textures or looser drape may use 5.5 mm. For bulky yarn use 8.0–10.0 mm as noted.
- Notions: tapestry needle, stitch markers, measuring tape, small amount of scrap yarn for holding sleeve/crown stitches if needed, pom-pom maker or scissors if you add a pom.
Abbreviations (US)
- ch — chain
- st — stitch
- sl st — slip stitch
- sc — single crochet
- hdc — half double crochet
- dc — double crochet
- tr — treble crochet
- inc — increase (work 2 sts into one st)
- dec — decrease (work two sts together)
- rep — repeat
- RS/WS — right side / wrong side
Sizing — how to choose
Measure the head circumference you’re making for (or use standard sizes): S (20″), M (22″), L (24″), XL (26″). To calculate foundation stitch counts you must make a gauge swatch and find stitches-per-inch (spi) in the stitch that you’ll use for the body. Then:
- Multiply desired finished head circumference (in inches) × spi to get target stitch count.
- Adjust that number to the nearest multiple required by the stitch repeat in the pattern (pattern will list repeat size).
- Work in rounds and check the fit — you can add or remove a full repeat round if you need a little more/less ease.
Example gauge math (digit-by-digit example)
If your swatch gives 4.5 stitches per inch and you need a Medium 22″ beanie:
- 22 × 4.5 = 99 stitches.
If the pattern requires a multiple of 9, 99 ÷ 9 = 11, so 99 is perfect. If the pattern requires a multiple of 8, round to the nearest multiple of 8: 99 ÷ 8 = 12 remainder 3 → nearest multiples are 96 (8 × 12) or 104 (8 × 13); choose 96 for a slightly firmer fit or 104 for slightly more ease.
Always swatch and block the swatch the same way you’ll treat the finished hat. Now, on to the patterns.
1. Crochet Hearts in a Row Stripe Beanie Pattern
Vibe: playful stripes with a repeated heart motif — cheerful gift for kids, teens, or anyone who loves a cute accent.
Skill level: confident beginner — single crochet / colorwork (tapestry) or surface embroidery.
Materials (adult M example)
- Worsted-weight yarn: Main Color (MC) ~150–200 yd, Contrast Color (CC) for hearts/stripes ~50–100 yd.
- Hook: 5.0 mm (or hook to obtain gauge).
- Notions: tapestry needle, stitch markers.
Gauge (example)
- Swatch: sc in the round, blocked = 4.5 sts per inch (example — measure your own).
Pattern repeat
- Heart chart works over a multiple of 9 stitches (example repeat). If your spi × circumference returns N, adjust to nearest multiple of 9.
Sizes (stitch counts) — example using spi = 4.5
- S (20″): 20 × 4.5 = 90 sts → nearest multiple of 9: 90 (9 × 10).
- M (22″): 22 × 4.5 = 99 sts → 99 (9 × 11).
- L (24″): 24 × 4.5 = 108 sts → 108 (9 × 12).
- XL (26″): 26 × 4.5 = 117 sts → 117 (9 × 13).
If your gauge differs, follow the math in Quick essentials.
Construction overview
Worked in the round from brim to crown. Brim options: ribbed folded brim (hdc BLO) or simple sc brim. The heart stripe is worked in tapestry crochet (carry floats behind work) or can be embroidered on afterward for beginner-friendly make.
Step-by-step
Brim (folded ribbed cuff)
- Foundation: ch foundation equal to your stitch count (see sizes). Join in round, being careful not to twist. Example M: ch 99; join.
- Rounds 1–10: hdc in BLO around. This creates a stretchy rib that you can fold up (work more rounds for a wider cuff). For a non-folded cuff do 4 rounds hdc even and proceed.
Body with heart rows
- Join MC and work 2–4 rounds hdc even after the cuff to sit under the ear line.
- Begin stripe/heart pattern: follow the heart chart round by round across the row using tapestry crochet: hold CC ready, slide floats behind, change colors when necessary by pulling new color through at the last yarn-over of previous stitch. Work the heart chart for as many rows as required for your hat height — typically 6–10 rounds of heart/stripe motif (chart will show vertical repeats). For a tall beanie you may add additional rounds of stripe or plain hdc between heart rows.
Crown shaping
- After working desired height to top of head (measure from under the brim to crown; adults ~7–8″ from underbust? typical hat depth from under-brim at ear to crown ~7.5–9″ depending on style), begin crown decreases:
- Round 1 (decrease round): (hdc 6, hdc2tog) repeat across (adjust numbers so decreases are evenly spaced — example for M with 99 sts: pick a repeat to distribute 11 decreases across; one approach is hdc 8, hdc2tog repeated 11 times = 11 × 9 = 99 — plan per your chosen repeat).
- Round 2: hdc even.
- Round 3: (hdc 7, hdc2tog) repeat (or continue evenly decreasing each alternate round) until you have 12–16 sts remaining.
- Fasten off leaving tail. Thread tail through remaining sts with tapestry needle, pull tight to close crown, weave tail inside hat.
Finishing
- Weave in ends. Block lightly if you used cotton to even stitches. If you prefer embroidered hearts rather than tapestry crochet, work stripes in CC and use surface embroidery to stitch hearts after the hat is complete.
Variations
- Make thin stripes between heart rows for color accents.
- Add a small pom in CC or MC.
2. Crochet Pink Cable-Knit Pom-Pom Cottagecore Beanie Pattern
Vibe: cozy cottagecore with a cable-look texture and a soft pompom — classic gift for chilly weather.
Skill level: intermediate — uses front-post/back-post stitches to create cable-like ribs. Can be done with a larger hook to mimic knit cables.
Materials
- Worsted or aran-weight yarn (for substantial cables): ~200–250 yd.
- Hook: 5.5 mm (or to match gauge). For chunkier cables use a bulkier yarn + 7–8 mm hook and reduce total rows accordingly.
- Notions: tapestry needle, pom-pom, stitch markers.
Gauge (example)
- In pattern rib (post stitch rib): 3.75 sts/inch (measure over several inches).
Repeat & stitch multiple
- Cable rib repeat = multiple of 8 stitches (example: 4 sts cable panel + 4 sts reverse rib). Adjust total foundation stitches to nearest multiple of 8.
Sizes (example counts using spi = 3.75)
- M (22″): 22 × 3.75 = 82.5 → choose 80 (8 × 10) for firmer fit or 88 (8 × 11) for more ease; I recommend 88 for a cozy adult beanie. The pattern below demonstrates with 88 sts.
Construction overview
Worked in the round from brim up. Brim is folded rib (hdc BLO) for neatness and warmth; cable panels created with front-post dc (fpdc) and back-post dc (bpdc) create the cable texture without a cable needle.
Step-by-step (example using 88 sts)
Brim
- Ch 88, join to work in rounds. Rounds 1–8: hdc BLO around. Fold up and optionally seam the bottom edge to create a cuff.
Set up round
- Rnd 9: [fpdc over next 4 sts, bpdc over next 4 sts] repeat around — this establishes the cable block: 4-front-post (cable) / 4-back-post (background).
Cable twist
To create the visual cable cross:
- Work several rounds of the pattern established (fpdc 4, bpdc 4) until you have 6–8 rounds of height for the cable section.
- Cable cross row (every 8–10 rounds, depending on look): to twist, work: fpdc for first 2 sts of cable, skip next 2 sts and fpdc them later, then go back and fpdc into the skipped 2 sts so the second pair crosses over the first. Because we’re working entirely in crochet, one simple cable cross method is:
- Identify a 4-st cable block: sts A, B, C, D (in order). On the cross round: work fpdc into C and D first (insert around the post of C and D), then work fpdc into A and B. This makes the right-hand cross appear. Use stitch markers to mark cable blocks prior to the cross round.
Continue rounds
- Continue sets of 8–10 rounds and cross again as desired until hat reaches crown level.
Crown decreases
- Begin decreases by switching to dc for easier shaping or keep fpdc pattern but reduce: in first decrease round, work (fpdc 3, fpdc2tog over next 2) across appropriate sts to reduce evenly (ensure decreases are placed at consistent points — aim to remove one repeat across). You may temporarily switch to dc for last few decrease rounds if that simplifies the shaping. Finish by pulling through remaining loops.
Finishing
- Attach a large faux-fur pom or matching yarn pom. Weave ends, block to even cables.
Variations & notes
- For a slouchy beanie, add extra rounds of cable pattern before decreasing.
- For a more knitlike cable, use a slightly smaller hook to tighten fabric.
3. Crochet Rainbow Granny Beanie Pattern
Vibe: bright, cheerful, granny-square-inspired rounds translated into a beanie — playful and quick to make from scrap yarn.
Skill level: confident beginner — rounds of clusters and color changes.
Materials
- Multiple colors of worsted yarn (scraps work great) totaling ~150–250 yd.
- Hook: 5.0 mm.
- Notions: tapestry needle.
Gauge & repeat
- Granny cluster (3 dc cluster) texture gauge: 4 clusters = 4″ (example); calculate stitches as clusters per round rather than individual stitches.
Construction overview
Worked in joined rounds from crown outwards (like a circular granny) until crown diameter reaches target (approx 7–8″ for adult). Then switch to body rounds worked down as a tube.
Step-by-step
Crown (granny-round center)
- MR, ch 3, work 11 dc into ring, sl st to join (12 dc).
- Round 2: ch 3, 2 dc in same space, ch 2, (3 dc, ch 2) in next space repeat around to make 4 corner clusters (this begins the granny-round). For crown growth do a circular granny increase sequence: in early rounds work corners (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in existing chain-2 spaces and add side clusters between corners as needed. Continue changing color every one or two rounds for a rainbow effect.
Flatten the crown
- Work rounds until the flat circle measures 7–8″ across (the flat crown will become the top of the hat). If it starts to ruffle, skip a set of increases; if it cups, add increases.
Body
- Once crown is wide enough, convert to continuous rounds of cluster or sc to form the sides: pick up stitches in space sequence around and work evenly in staggered cluster pattern to create a smooth tube. For example, work one round of sc between clusters to stabilize, then work rounds of dc cluster pattern downwards until hat reaches desired depth (~8.5–9″ from crown center to under-brim for adult). If you need a snugger fit, work last 4–6 rounds in sc.
Brim (optional folded)
- Work 6–10 rounds of hdc BLO to create a foldable brim if desired; fold and seam.
Finishing
- Weave in ends from color changes. For a polished finish, work a final round of sc in a single color to even out color transitions.
Variations
- Use larger clusters for more open, decorative effect.
- Make a matching cowl with the leftover scraps for a set.
4. Crochet Slouchy Willow Knot Beanie Pattern
Vibe: relaxed slouch with an elegant knotted texture near crown — modern and versatile.
Skill level: intermediate — uses elongated stitches and a simple knot motif. Works well in worsted or DK weight for drape.
Materials
- Worsted or DK yarn ~200 yd.
- Hook: 5.5 mm (DK) or 6.0 mm (worsted) for drape.
- Notions: stitch markers, tapestry needle.
Gauge (example)
- In body stitch (hdc spaced lace) = 4 sts/inch.
Construction overview
Worked from brim up in rounds with an elongated knot motif inserted near the crown that produces a soft, folded knot look. The body uses a relaxed open hdc/lattice stitch so the slouch hangs nicely.
Step-by-step
Brim
- Work a fitted ribbed brim: ch foundation to fit (spi × circumference), join. Rounds 1–8: hdc BLO for folded brim.
Body (slouch)
- Transition to body stitch: ch 2, hdc in next st, skip 1 repeat around (creates a light mesh) — this stitch gives extra drape. Work even for 5–6 inches depending on desired slouch.
Willow knot motif (placement)
- Mark the top quarter of the hat where you want the knot (center back or slightly off-center). The knot motif is formed by making a short sequence of elongated loops that are then folded and tacked down.
- Example knot round:
- Rnd A (setup): work [hdc] around until knot position.
- Rnd B (knot formation): create a loop by yo, insert hook into next st and pull up an elongated loop (approx 1.5–2× normal loop height); repeat to create 4 elongated loops in sequence; secure working yarn and continue around. On the next round, these loops are gathered and sewed over each other to form a knot.
- Secure knot: use tapestry needle and a short length of yarn to gather the elongated loops from the inside and sew them down forming a neat knot. This step is more sewing than crochet and gives the folded look.
Crown
- After knot formation, continue rounds of body stitch for 1–2 inches, then begin gentle decreases: dec every 8–10 sts evenly, repeat every other round until 12–16 sts remain. Pull tail through and close crown.
Finishing
- Tuck knot ends neatly to inside. Steam-block lightly for shape.
Variations
- Make the knot subtle (smaller loops) or dramatic (larger loop counts).
- Convert to slouchy beanie without knot by skipping knot round but keeping same body stitch.
5. Crochet Fair Isle Hand Knit Beanie Pattern
Vibe: classic stranded colorwork inspired by Fair Isle knitwear — a sophisticated, vintage gift.
Skill level: advanced beginner/intermediate — color changes and stranded floats. Best with two or three contrast colors.
Materials
- Worsted yarn in 3 contrasting colors: MC ~150–200 yd, CC1 ~50–100 yd, CC2 ~50–100 yd.
- Hook: 4.5–5.0 mm to get tighter fabric for stranded work. A tighter hook helps to keep floats neat and the hat warm.
- Notions: tapestry needle, stitch markers.
Gauge (example)
- sc tapestry stranded: 5 sts/inch when worked reasonably tightly.
Repeat & multiple
- Colorwork chart repeats over a multiple of 10 stitches (example) — adjust total stitches to match chart repeat and head circumference.
Sizes (example counts using spi = 5)
- M (22″): 22 × 5 = 110 sts → if repeat is 10, 110 (10 × 11) is perfect.
Construction overview
Worked in the round from brim to crown using single crochet tapestry technique: change colors by carrying floats on the wrong side and crocheting over them or bringing them behind stitches as you work.
Step-by-step
Brim
- Ch foundation equal to stitch count, join. Rounds 1–8: sc BLO or hdc BLO for a folded brim.
Charted colorwork body
- After brim, switch to MC and begin colorwork chart: follow the stranded chart round by round. When changing colors, always pick up new color with last yarn over of the previous stitch to keep floats neat. Carry floats at the back: when carrying a color across fewer than 4 stitches, crochet over the float to secure it; for longer floats, catch every 4 sts or twist colors to avoid long floats.
- Work chart rounds until you reach crown decrease zone (typical adult hat height from under-brim ~7.5–9″).
Crown decreases
- To maintain chart look during decreases, work decrease rounds that reduce counts while following the chart where possible:
- Decrease round 1: sc 8, sc2tog repeat (if using 110 sts, this removes 11 sts leaving 99) — choose numbers that maintain evenness and avoid disrupting major color motifs.
- After a decrease round, continue rounds of sc in predominant color, decreasing every other round until 12–16 sts remain. Pull through tail to close crown.
Finishing
- Weave in colorwork ends carefully on wrong side, securing floats. Block gently to even colorwork (avoid aggressive stretching that will distort floats).
Variations & notes
- Use a neutral base MC with two accent colors for modern palette.
- For very cold climates, line the hat with a thin fleece band sewn inside.
Conclusion
These five beanie patterns cover a wide range of styles — cute heart stripes, cottagecore cables, scrappy rainbow, modern slouch, and classic stranded colorwork. A few final practical tips:
- Swatch first: always swatch the stitch and gauge used for each pattern and complete the math for your chosen size. If your swatch gives different spi than the examples above, use the steps under Quick essentials to recalculate foundation counts.
- Blocking: most beanies benefit from a gentle blocking to even rows and reduce lumps, especially after colorwork. Use steam or a damp cloth; do not overstretch.
- Finishing: weave in ends securely. For gifts, add a gift tag with care instructions: machine wash cold gentle for acrylic/worsted blends; lay flat to dry.
- Customization & sets: match a cowl, ear warmers, or pair of mittens for a complete handmade set. Pom-poms, embroidered initials, or a small stitched heart add a personal touch.
